Dubai moves fast, but a first visit shouldn't. The trick is to alternate: one day of superlatives — the world's tallest, largest, glossiest — and one day in the old city, where abras still cross the creek for a dirham.
The New City
Do Burj Khalifa at sunset, brunch like it's a sport, and give the marina an evening — the skyline is best from the water.
The Old City
- Al Fahidi's wind-tower lanes, best before the heat sets in.
- The spice and gold souks — haggle gently, drink the offered tea.
- Dinner in Deira: this is where Dubai actually eats.
Dubai's greatest luxury isn't in the malls — it's the ten-minute abra ride at dusk.
Stay near the metro your first time; the city is bigger than it photographs. Three nights covers the icons, five lets you find your own.
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